Pilgrim in Pamplona
Last night unwittingly became a bit of an adventure in Pamplona.
It all started when I met Franz for dinner. He invited me to a Michelin starred restaurant. How could I possibly refuse, even though they didn’t open until 9pm?! (Late, for the new “pilgrim” in me!)
Franz is an interesting man from Liechtenstein, who I met the previous night in Larrasoaña when we had a large cook-in for 12 people at the albergue (hostel). I had cooked with Jade and George, a very personable young Australian couple, who I like very much. Franz had brought several bottles of delicious Rioja to the table. There were some sore heads in the albergue the next morning!
So, over an exquisite dinner in Pamplona, I found out a little bit more about Franz. He has recently retired from being a director of a company of foot and mouth artists from around the world. (On my wall, I think I have one of his prints from a korean foot and mouth artist, which my mother gave to me!)
He is 62 years old and has suffered two cancers, but is a survivor. He has become incredibly fit and runs up a mountain every day with a 10kg box of washing powder in his pack!
He also collects wines. (Those of you who know me, will realise how exciting this is..) Over 7,000 bottles, mainly Italian, mainly magnums! And he has built the most dreamlike cellars for them, in which you can entertain up to twelve guests! Heavenly.
So, after this lovely evening, you can imagine my horror when I went merrily back to my albergue at 23:45 to find the big fortress-like doors barred and a sign saying they closed at 23:00!
I texted my bunk mates, Jade and George, but no response.
And then my phone battery died.
Alone and empty handed in Pamplona.
I did the only thing I could think to do.
I went back to the restaurant (also a hotel) and told them that I was a pilgrim, had been locked out of my albergue, and asked if I could simply have a bed…no shower…just a bed. They were very kind…they didn’t even want to charge me! I love Spain! I love the Camino!
Ironically, I didn’t sleep very well. I also had no clue what time it was, as the room had no windows and my phone was dead. I made myself wait inside until I was sure I wouldn’t be wandering the streets at 4am.
When I finally emerged I was shocked to find that the sun was fully up and it was already 8:35am! (again late, for the new pilgrim in me!)
The albergue was completely empty…most people get up around 6am, gone by 7am!
I only walked 19kms today (only 15kms yesterday) so I fear there will have to be some catch up soon, as I need to average around 25kms a day. I am sure my body is very grateful for the shorter days though.
The weather was glorious today and there were far more people on the Camino: families out celebrating Fathers Day, couples, dog walkers, runners, cyclists. Chatted merrily to some locals who were clearly fascinated by the international draw of the Camino.
Today was about open vistas. Incredibly beautiful. But I miss the cosy forest birdsong. Sometimes quite symphonic. I have been recording it, to transport home with me.
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