I’ve said this before, but again I am struck by the powerful presence of the sun. In this case, illustrated by the magical transformation of the scene earlier today, which can surely be scientifically explained with statistics about water content and evaporation. It is magic nonetheless.
In the heat of the afternoon, when presented with hillside views to die for, we stopped in a field for one of our favourite brews. Hartmut’s hot tea.
But it was not for the first time that we almost had to do without the tea, when the most crucial item ingredient was nowhere to be found. The lighter.
You would think that, in the confines of a single backpack, there would be limited places for a lighter to hide. So one would perhaps assume it was lost? Not Hartmut…he diligently continued to look.
During the search, I lay on the camping mat in the sunshine, quietly resigned to the fact that we were going to be drinking cold water after all.
I reminisced about the fact that last summer, Gordon had taken me to the Scottish Crannog Centre, specifically to “make fire”. The Crannog Centre is an authentic recreation of a 2,500 year old loch-dwelling in Loch Tay, where you can see how the Iron Age people lived. Gordon had taken his boys there some years ago and he was extremely proud that they had been able to make fire from sticks and stones.
We had sat through a very informative guided tour, but it was clear to me that this was all part of an initiation, and all he really wanted was proof that I could make fire! It was as if I had to prove this to him before I would be worthy of being his wife! I’m glad to report that I succeeded, though not before shedding a few beads of sweat!
Meanwhile, the search for the elusive lighter was continuing. Long after I would have given up looking for it, there was a triumphant wielding of the important piece of kit. I was relieved that I wasn’t going to have to prove my fire making skills again. Great whoops of joy, and the tea making ritual finally began.
Another ritual which went hand in hand with afternoon tea also began…Jade’s picnic rice cake concoctions! Out came their prized Tupperware, containing all the comestibles that were being saved from the great crush of the rucksack! 4 rice cakes were laid out and the lid used for chopping.
In today’s instance we had cream cheese, mayonnaise, tuna, olives, cucumber and tomato. Jade would distribute each ingredient equally and appetisingly over each rice cake to create a beautifully crafted snack. These were then devoured and the process started again, until all the toppings were exhausted.
We continued on our way feeling delirious with sun energy. I noted that finally, I was feeling no discernible leg pains.
We were walking along a country road when I saw and commented on the strange behaviour of Spanish frogs who clearly had a desire to lie flat on the ground to die. I was met with quizzical looks, then uproarious laughter!
When I realised the stupidity of my observational statement, that in fact, these poor frogs had all been run down in their prime by motor cars, I too wept with laughter. For quite some time!
It was only mid afternoon when we reached San Marmede, but the whole atmosphere and layout of the albergue was so welcoming and inviting that we decided to stop for the day. Lidia had not been exaggerating when she said it was one of the best albergues on the Camino!
Brilliant sunshine, a yoga session on the grass with fellow german pilgrims Katharina and Lena, followed by “muy grande cerveza”, full laundry facilities, a delicious communal meal and games in a delightful hacienda atmosphere. Heaven!
Su-a Lee
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