As we approached the final 100k, there was inevitable chat about accommodation. Should we stay in Sarría (the last starting point from where pilgrims are still eligible to receive a Compostela) where it might be busy, or perhaps stay 4km before, or 3.5km after, in order to avoid the crowds?
Today, everyone was talking about staying at San Marmede (4km before Sarría) where the albergue is run by relatives of one of our fellow pilgrims, Lidia… It is even quoted in one guide book as “one of the best albergues on the whole Camino”!
In the true nature of our pilgrimage, we decided to see how we felt when we got there, as it would mean a longer day tomorrow. At this point, I would like to say that the upcoming final 100k has held particular significance for me because I have been receiving a treasure trail of “messages” from the Barr family who have been walking from Sarría, five days ahead of me.
Graham Barr has been one of Gordon’s best friends since school days, when they were 15. He was best man at both of Gordon’s weddings!
Graham and Susan have two boys of similar ages to Gordon’s two boys and they have embarked on this final stage of the Camino as a family.
A significant journey for Graham too, as he had joined up with Gordon on this very same stage when Gordon did his Camino two years ago.
The Barr family have been a huge source of fun, humour, love and support since I have known them. They have embraced me into their family and immersed me into a well-oiled history of repetitive humour and practical pranks!
Their Camino “treasure trail” has consisted of daily messages and pictures of particular places where they have written a personal message to me along the way. I have been collecting these clues with a building sense of anticipation, joy and warmth in my heart. I will start collecting my treasures tomorrow at the 100k marker.
Despite always trying to get an early start, we invariably end up leaving late…not much before 8:30am. Breakfast is much the same in all albergues : bread with jams, a small muffin in a plastic wrapper and coffee. Today we had an added treat of croissants.
We left together, Hartmut, George, Jade and I, all in a good mood. The cloud was down to the ground and therefore quite chilly. But the conversation was engaging. George opened up some pretty big topics, starting with the meaning of life! And, what was the definition of “spiritual”? Until we broke it down to the pure and simple atom…destroying atoms before reconstructing them for teleportation!
The sun came out and lifted our already good moods to an almost ecstatic level. We literally leapt for joy and tried to capture the moment with self timer photos! Some passing french pilgrims laughed heartily at our antics and offered to take some footage!
The roadside church where we had stopped was so small that it had the feeling and presence of a bus shelter, but obviously far more beautiful!
The views were absolutely stunning, as the cloud inversion in the valley became apparent. We gradually lost sight of each other as each of us became obsessed with capturing those visions of mercurial beauty on camera. The pathway itself was also beautiful, like being on a panoramic ledge. Unusual clouds were taking shape above the cloud inversion.
Whenever I passed George and Jade, they were singing together. In fact I captured a moment on video from some distance behind them, when they entered the thick cloud inversion singing “We All Live in a Yellow Submarine” and then submerged from view! I enjoyed the irony and humour of this.
Entering the thick cloud after being in sunshine and feeling the sudden temperature drop was still a shock, even though it made total sense.
It’s like a proper “scene change” in theatre or film. Music is such an important and powerful aspect of mood change. At this point, the music would have changed dramatically and placed you in a completely different place, feeling and atmosphere. I certainly felt the fear and the chill…and sped up my steps to hurtle down the hill in the eerie mist.
We all converged again at a tiny village which boasted an ancient chestnut tree, several hundred years old. Although it was still cold and misty, we chose to sit outside the cafe drinking our favourite Camino drink, “chocolate con ron”!
By the time we started to move again, the sun was beginning to exert his power against the mist. Inevitably the sun won and the cloud inversion gave up its ghost.
Su-a Lee
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