The past days have been intense. There has been the build up, operation and fulfilment of two of my most important and significant sections of the Camino: the Cruz de Ferro and O Cebreiro.
When I finally came upon the Cruz, my first thought was that it wasn’t at all as I expected. All the pictures that I’ve seen (now including my own!), show it to be a remote spot, perhaps at the top of a hill. A dramatic place.
In fact, it appears along the path beside the main road. There is a picnic area beside it. The situation is less than dramatic.
I had started my day by staying behind after breakfast to take part in a yoga class at 8am which the wonderful people at the Albergue Monte Irago at Foncebadón were putting on. Jade, George and Hartmut went on ahead for the day.
The class was perfectly designed for walkers, providing a thorough warm up for all the crucial muscles and joints that we require. Over half of the class was made up of workers at the albergue and we chanted and relaxed to beautiful music. The atmosphere was familial and nurturing and the views from the windows were stunning. Foncebadón sits on top of a hill at 1400 metres. I wish that every morning could start like this.
By the time I started walking it was nearly 10am and I left with the most unbelievable spring in my step. I passed many pilgrims, some who I had never seen before, possibly because they had been one or two villages behind and had caught up while I was in the yoga class. Many commented on my speed.
The fact was, that I felt great! For the first time on the Camino, I felt fully confident that I was in no pain whatsoever! What a relief and joy! I inhaled the beautiful path. I was also quite thankful that I was walking alone, so that I could prepare myself mentally for the laying down of my stone.
Within half an hour, quite suddenly and unceremoniously, I arrived at the Cruz de Ferro.
There was a sole American man there. He offered to take my picture and I felt like I would offend him if I refused, so I agreed. But really, I just wanted some peace and quiet. There was a whole hoard of pilgrims hot on my tail, so I made my way quite quickly to the top of the mound of stones.
I sat on a small rock, hoping that this wasn’t affecting another’s karma.
I took out my stone and felt it. I was glad that it was heavy and substantial. I was glad too, that I’d picked this one for its imperfections…two rough corners knocked off. There and then, I decided to write on it.
The rough texture made the going slow, and the pen nearly expired. I could hear the American man still offering all the incoming pilgrims the opportunity for a picture of themselves. I was aware that I was actually a blot on these pilgrims’ landscape, sitting in the middle of their pictures, but I was intent on my message, and I also felt that I had earned my place there for these precious moments.
It was only sometime after I had left the Cruz, that I really felt the effects of performing such a symbolic act. Waves of emotion engulfed me and I knew a process had begun.
Su-a Lee
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